Canary System Assembly

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The Canary Chic is comprised of 2 PCBs which fit at right angles to each other. The circular PCB houses the indication elements and is intended to form an exposed face of the device. Any number of mechanical enclosures could be used for this device but the following page suggests a design that could be copied using a piece of 38mm plastic pipe available from a local hardware store.

The alarm and visual indication are mounted in the end of the pipe and "potted" in place using resin or in our case, a glue gun.

Once you are happy that the PCB is fully tested and operating as expected we can proceed with the following.

  1. Cut a length of the 38mm pipe that will cover the assembled circuit boards. This works out at approximately 115mm. Using a lathe to provide a straight cut is best but a hack saw or similar can give great results with a bit of extra care.
  2. Remove any sharp edges or debris with a file or sandpaper.
  3. Push the 2 assembled PCBs into the pipe until the circular PCB is visible near the end. The sounder should protrude from the end of the pipe by 1-2mm.
  4. Ensuring that the circular PCB parallel to the end of the pipe, use a glue gun to seal around the edge of the PCB and hold in position until the glue is set.
  5. Once the PCB is held in position and the gaps around the edge are filled. Continue to fill the rest of the area around the sounder with a clear or cloudy resin or using the glue gun, covering the LEDs up to the edge of the pipe. Do not use any resin that smells like vinegar! This indicates that the curing mechanism is acid based and could damage the electronic components.
  6. Leave the potting compound to set.
  7. If you wish, you can cut down into the sides of the pipe so the visual indication is visible from the side of the device. This can be done carefully with a file or saw. Make sure you don't cut into the PCB!
  8. Carefully note where the Live and Neutral wires exit the PCB. Using a drill, cut 2 small holes near to the other end of the pipe.
  9. Feed the wires through the holes and twist them together.
  10. Connect them to a standard mains plug.
  11. At this point it is a good idea to cover the area where the wires are connected to the PCB and the solder joints with glue gun glue, to prevent access to the exposed connections.
  12. Once the device has been tested and no further programming is required, an end cap should be fixed in place to cover the end of the pipe and make it safe for the public. This can either be glued or screwed into position.
  13. Power it up! It will do a "Lamp/Audio Test".